About

"The evolving Francophile..."

My husband Jack has always wanted to live in Paris and learn French. I thought it would be good for him to achieve his life time dream. Hence, we moved to Paris in 2008. My first year was difficult. I started "missives" to relieve some stress and chronicle my life so friends back in the US could read what I am experiencing. I currently write about my food in Paris, which is my passion., travel experiences, and "experiences living in Paris."

It is definitely a challenge to live here, but each year it gets easier, and quite enjoyable, in large part because I value friendships over locale. I have a love/hate relationship with Paris as do most Parisians, mais La vie est belle (but life is good)!

Thursday, April 25, 2024

LE SUFFREN -- Restaurant Review

 

For information, menu, directions and scheduled opening times, check their FB page https://www.facebook.com/brasserielesuffren/?locale=fr_FR



Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor 
€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)
1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4 - Star........................................€€€................................... 3 - Bells


Interestingly, this restaurant is on the other side of our arrondissement of the 15eme. We go by this restaurant often on the bus, but I've never had a desire to eat there, since I assumed it was a tourist restaurant, hence, wanted to avoid it. 




Friends who go there often suggested we go there for oysters. We got there about 7:30 pm and surprisingly we were able to get in with no problem, even though we didn't have reservations. 

There was a nice mix of french people as well as some tourists. 

The menu had a nice variety. The restaurant focuses on "Fruit de Mer" (fruit from the sea) and traditional french cuisine.

















The restaurant also had some specials and some of us did have the chicken which was roasted with balsamic and they loved it. 

One thing off the bat, their fries must be one of the best fries I've ever had in Paris. It was addicting. They were definitely double fried and they never got soggy.

















NOTE: I am only going to review the dishes that had.



OYSTERS. As I mentioned they are known for their fresh seafood. We ordered oysters, and it's the end of the season, but they were still excellent. What else can I say except they were fresh and succulent. 







CHOUCROUTE. This is a very, very traditional french dish. Choucroute means sauerkraut, or "garnished sauerkraut". It  originated from the Alsace region of France, which borders Germany. Which explains the heartiness of this dish.

I would never order this dish in the summer, but since it has been quite cold lately, (52F 11C high) I decided to order it .


The sauerkraut was perfect, not sour. There was a big hunk of ham hock, ham, 2-different types of sausages. A braised pork belly and potatoes.

Needless to say, this is not only a big dish, but also rich and heavy. It was very good. The restaurant captured its original essence of the dish. But to be honest, I could only eat a third of it, and I asked for a doggie bag. 



 WINES 

The SAN MICHELI estate is one of the oldest in the “Sartène” appellation. Owned by the family since the 18th century, the estate was taken over in 1974 by Jean-Paul and Bénédicte Phélip. The vineyard today extends over 22 hectares planted with traditional grape varieties from the “Sartène Vin de Corse” appellation and is managed in a reasoned and traditional way: autumn and spring plowing, weeding and hoeing in summer. A lot of work still remains manual, more particularly the harvest, in order to prioritize the quality of the harvested berries.






CHARACTERISTICS:  

**Its dress is pale gold in color.

**Its nose presents aromas of lime, peppermint and wild fennel.

**On the palate, a lively and fresh wine, allowing you to imagine the granite terroir of the estate through its mineral character which is fully expressed.

**You will enjoy this wine with discreet and original flavors: like sushi or guacamole with crab and curry.

(Wine description by 
L'avis de Jean-Luc, Maître-Sommelier)



SUMMARY 

I'm glad we went. I thought the food was very traditionally French and from different regions of France. You had dishes from Alsace, seafood from the south, all very good and well executed considering how crowded it can get. We got there at 7:30 pm with reservations, by 9 pm it was packed. So, if you wanna go without reservations, go earlier. The service was good.

It seemed the quintessential tourist restaurant, but turned out to be quite good with many locals, pleasant staff who also speak english and well prepared food. So, would we go back, ABSOLUTELY. 

With 1-glass of red wine, 2-bottles of white, appetizers of oysters and clams and 3-mains our bill came 307.30€ for 5, or 61.46€ per person.

Would we go back, absolutely. But as the weather starts to get warmer, I'll with lighter dishes. 

Sunday, April 21, 2024

BOUBALÉ -- Restaurant Review

 


Check website for locations, menu and to make reservations
Website:https://www.boubaleparis.com/en/

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor 
€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)
1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.25 - Star........................................€€€................................... Bomb - Bells


Boubalé is located in the "Le MaraIs". "A favorite expression of Ashkenazi grandmothers, Boubalé is the tender name for "my little doll, my little darling" in Yiddish. It's with this memory in mind that Chef Assaf Granit reinvents a cuisine that comes from the depths of the soul, his heritage." ~ Chef Granit

Chef Granit was one of the owners and creators of the very popular Israeli restaurant "Balagan", which has since closed and reinvented as "Kapara", which I have yet to go to.

For those not in the know,  'Ashkenazi Jews / Ashkenazic Jews / Ashkenazim are Jews who originally lived in northern and eastern Europe. They once lived in the area of Rhineland and France and after the crusades they moved to Poland, Lithuania and Russia. In the 17th century, avoiding persecution, many Jews moved to and settled in Western Europe.' ~ Wiki



The interior is lively as are the conversations. It was a bit loud for me, but I find a lot of Israelis are very animated filled with the love of life. 





As I perused the menu, it basically reminded me of Eastern European food, which you can find today in Poland, Hungary, the Baltic countries, Germany and that whole region. The food tends to be very hearty and oftentimes rich. (refer to menu in website).

I'm only going to review the dishes that I had.


ENTRÉE

CHICKEN LIVERS -- I've had many a chicken livers in my lifetime, but I have to say this was my favorite. The chicken livers were chunky, and more importantly for me, NOT sweet. It wasn't laden with mayonnaise or schmaltz (chicken fat), it was delicious, albeit rich and heavy. It was accompanied by kosher pickles, croutons and spicy mustard. I'm not a fan of regular dill pickles because I find them too sour, but these pickles were perfect, kosher pickles.



PLATS

CHICKEN SCHNITZEL, FERMENTED CABBAGE, POTATOES AND MUSTARD. 
I've normally had veal schnitzel, but not chicken. Schnitzels are a traditional German dish. It looked dry, but that was because of the breading. It was actually quite moist with the lemon and accompanying cabbage and potato, which was actually a potato salad.  The cabbage was more akin to coleslaw with a vinegary, sweet taste. All-in-all it was a simple, but good hearty dish that your Ashkenazi or German grandmother would make. 




DESSERT

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE -- 
Although we did not order desserts because at this point we were full, they comped us with chocolate mousse. It was light and delicious. The topped salty granules brought out the sweetness and chocolate. 


















WINE


COTES DE RHONE CHATEAU SIMIAN 2021 COMMES DES AUVAUX

"A fresh and delicious Côtes-du-Rhône, with supple tannins. Full of fruit, it also reveals spicy notes such as pepper and hints of garrigue. Perfect for cold cuts or prime rib." ~ Vin de As






SUMMARY 

As a general rule, I'm not very fond of Eastern European cuisine. I find the cuisine very heavy, stick to your ribs kind of food which keeps you feeling full for hours. But I have to say, I really, really enjoyed this restaurant. It's unpretentious food. It's what you expect your "Boubalé" to make. My fav for the evening was the chicken livers. That could've been my whole meal. I wish I could've finished it, but it was very filling.

Now to the restaurant. The restaurant is quite large by Parisian standards, you have a clear view of the kitchen so I like that a lot. And, it's in a great location. The service is IMPECCABLE. However, the only downfall was the noise. Everyone is talking at a loud pitch because they play loud background music which makes it even more difficult to hear. But if I'm being honest, it is a happy atmosphere. 

I brought my overall scoring down .25 because of the noise level. 

The food was heavy, as characteristic of Eastern European food, but it was delicious. Would we go back, ABSOLUTELY. 
 
They have an EXTENSIVE wine list (pages and pages) for wines from all around (mostly Eastern European) and you could spend 30 minutes just trying to read through them all.  And most are expensive. 

For 3 apéros, 5-entrées, 3-plats, a glass of red wine and a bottle of white wine, our bill totaled 289€ or 72.25€ per person.

Monday, April 15, 2024

Vin et Marée Murat -- Restaurant Review

Check website for locations, menu and to make reservations

Website: https://vin-et-maree.restaurant/murat/

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor 

€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

3.75 - Star........................................€€€................................... 2 - Bells


I'm back. After 2-days of jet lag recovery and my accidental fall, I decided it was time for me to go out and discover a new restaurant. I chose a seafood restaurant. This restaurant is actually a seafood chain restaurant with 4-restaurants in Paris. I'm usually hesitate of chain restaurants, but we're not in US anymore and they can vary and have their own personalities. 

I've been craving seafood, and a friend was in town and staying in the 16eme, so I decided on this chain restaurant. We chose the one in the 16eme. It's a large restaurant. A bar is located in the center and on either side are the dining rooms. 


The interior of the restaurant wasn't particularly Parisian, but keeping to its theme, they had a lot of seafood decor.


They did have a chalkboard with the special of the evening. 



















ENTRÉE

I opted not to have an entrée, since I was going to get the "fruit de mer".  

Sarindes Rôties a la fleur de Guerande. 

My two companions ordered this appetizer. They were delicious. Even though they were grilled they were quite moist. The guerande salt added a nice finishing touch. I ate the whole fish, whereas my companions filet'd it before eating. I even went as far as eating the whole head, cause it was that good. But I'm a heathen. 



PLATS


 
CHOCROUTE DE LA MER.

JJ ordered this dish. The fish in this dish was salmon. The salmon sat atop sauerkraut, but did not taste vinegary. It was a nicely composed dished. It was good with the cream sauce, and very moist. And, the potatoes was a great starch accompaniment. 








Belle sole entière à la plancha beurre.

Our friend ordered this dish. Very simply pan fried sole with a buttery lemon sauce on the side served with whipped mashed potatoes. Basically, it's a Sole meunièreShe liked the dish, but said it could have been cooked a tad more. I happened to like the accompanying butter sauce. 




FRUITS DE MER -- I ordered this cold seafood dish typical in France. It is served with nothing more than lemon and/or a vinaigrette dipping sauce. This is what was on the seafood platter, ½ Beau Homard d’Amérique du Nord, 4 Belles crevettes roses BIO, 2 Spéciales BIO de Quiberon, 2 Fines de Normandie par R. Verneuil, 2 Spéciales GILLARDEAU, Bulots - Crevettes grises. So very nice choices.

My fav was the half lobster, it was so sweet and tender. It's not an inexpensive platter at 59€; however, much more reasonable than many of the seafood places around the city such as, "Le Dome." 


DESSERT 

MANGO WITH SYRUP. 

Fruit with syrup can oftentimes taste like canned fruit. Fortunately, this did not. It was a very simple refreshing dish, nothing out of the ordinary. 





TASTING NOTES:  Chinon.  It's known for its lovely intensity of color. On the nose, the wine has aromas of coffee and sweet pepper with a hint of camphor mixed with vanilla. On the palate, aromas of undergrowth mixed with musk and blueberry. Solid structure with silky smooth tannins.





SUMMARY 


This is a good restaurant if you're craving for seafood. It's nothing out of the ordinary and you can get much of this at other seafood places. It is a chain, but I find chains in Paris can often be different from one location to another. Again, there are 4-locations in Paris. 

The "fruit de mer" selection was good. For me, the perfect amount. If you go to e.g., "Le Dome" you may get more, but you also pay a premium. Although the "fruit de mer" of 59€ is not cheap, comparatively speaking, it's quite reasonable. 

The others who ordered the warm dishes said they were good dishes, I particularly liked the grilled sardines. What distinguishes this restaurant from all the others was the service. It was beyond excellent.

For 2-spritz's, 1-pastis, 3-glasses of Saint Bris, 2-entrées, 2-plats, 1-"fruit de mer", 1-desert and 1-bottle of Chinon came to 230.30€ or 77€ a person.

NOTE: Although we spent an average of 77€/person, my dish skewed the average prices. So depending on your order, the meal can be very reasonable. 

Would we go back, ABSOLUTELY.





Saturday, March 23, 2024

PARIS -- HOW TO BLEND IN

 



INQUIRING MINDS WANT TO KNOW, WHAT SHOULD I BRING TO PARIS. THE DO'S AND DON'TS OF HOW TO BLEND IN. 

I spent today starting to pack for our return to Paris in April. Although I also have a wardrobe there, I do bring back a few things to add to my wardrobe.  Then I thought, maybe I should share some ideas for my readers on what to bring to Paris, so they can blend in and not look like a stereotypical tourist, which makes you a target for so many things. 

- Go with 3-basic colors: Black, Gray, Navy blue, Brown, Beige or white as your base color

- Accessories with colors, such as scarf, belt or bag (murse)

- Don’t wear loud, bright and/or overly printed shirts that screams “tourist” or Aloha! You’ll be marked as a tourist and easily become a pickpocket target or be upsold at e.g., a Café

- In recent years, shorts have become very acceptable day-to-day wear.

- Don’t wear bling-bling clothes (e.g., sequins) unless you plan on going to the Opera or Ballet. And, NEVER wear them in the day time.

- Loafers are always a good bet, you can dress them up or down and are comfortable to wear. Note: sneakers are now acceptable to wear.

- Jeans worn with a nice simple print or plain color shirt, with a nice belt goes a long way. 

- Bring a light jacket and/or sweater like a cardigan that can go with any outfit for those cool Spring and Autumn days/nights. Always a good idea to have a light stylish blazer.

- Accessorizing with jewelry is always a good idea, but nothing flashy/expensive or you will be a pickpocket target. 

- A bag to carry all your accessories is always a good idea. But I recommend one with a zipper to prevent being pick-pocketed

- In Paris, when going out to a nice dinner, it’s customary to dress to show respect to the Chef and the other patrons

- Do not wear gym clothes, sweats or leggings

- Don’t be a walking billboard of designer names (e.g. head to toe with gucci, hoochi and poochi), it’s considered “trashy”. Maybe one simple designer accessory, eg a Louis tuition sling bag

- And, light on the make-up boys and girls. You don’t wanna look like an overdone drag queen. In other words,  go light on the makeup. A more natural look is the style in Paris 

- Ultra small portable umbrella, yes it does rain a lot in Paris. Paris gets more rainfall than London

Most important, enjoy.



Wednesday, December 20, 2023

JOYEUSES FÊTES


Wishing all my readers, HAPPY HOLIDAY!


Merry Christmas, Joyeux Noël, 圣诞快乐, Vrolijk Kerstfeest, Frohe Weihnachten, Mele Kalikimaka, Tratry ny Krismasy, Feliz Navidad, Maligayang Pasko, Glædelig Jul, חג מולד שמח, Buon Natale, 메리 크리스마스, Selamat Hari Natal, Feliz Natal, Heri la Krismasi, สุขสันต์วันคริสต์มาส, کریسمس مبارک




 




Thursday, November 16, 2023

Complaints -- "Plaintes"

 


Sadly, as tourists we can easily be scammed, especially at cafes in tourist areas and feel helpless. For example being "upsold" in a cafe where you ask for a glass of wine and expecting it to cost less than €10, but get charged €30. This happened to me when I first moved to Paris. I complained to the manager, and as a general rule, they always side with their servers. Now I always ask for the menu, unless I know the place I'm going to.

These days you can actually file a complaint to a government office, and they will investigate and take action, if necessary. Tourism is a major industry in France and the government has been taken scamming seriously for the past 10 years. And, with the upcoming Olympics, they will be cracking down. 

So if you want to file a complaint, this site is similar to the "Better Business Bureau", and it's also in English. 




WEBSITE IS: https://signal.conso.gouv.fr/en/cafe-restaurant/faire-un-signalement

Hopefully, you won't experience this, but if you do, now you have recourse to help correct this.  

Tuesday, November 7, 2023

Michelin starred restaurants -- What say you.


Having a Michelin star does not guarantee good food. Some of the most cringe worthy experiences I've had were at Michelin starred restaurants. And, the question I ask, How the f*ck did they get a michelin star(s)

Bottom-line, garnering a michelin star should be about food, bad sadly as in anything else, it boils down to "food" politics.

Click on this link to read the article "Michelin Starred Restaurants"

In France, "Restaurants will have to display a new logo to indicate which dishes were not entirely prepared by the chef under new plans announced by the minister of commerce."


Check out this recent article on the french attempt to keep its "french cuisine", french and not "warming up frozen food," which many cafes in tourists spots do.

"Fait Maison Symbol"